top of page
Country No. 35: Ireland

The Greenhouse, Dublin

Attendees: Ben, Ellen, Maor, PK, Poppy, Becky, Kim, Lee, Calum, Eoghan (venue chosen by Eoghan)

2nd December 2017

€140 a head

 

The previous entry in the world food opus ended on a cliff hanger, akin to the most optimistic episode of EastEnders ever conceived. Picking up where we left off, post drumroll, we find our roving band of gluttons scanning the internet for the cheapest possible flights to Dublin…

 

Amazingly within 48 hours 5 pairs of plucky prospectors had not only agreed on a date (a process that in itself can often take weeks) but booked their flights. With that it was simply a case of crossing off the days on the calendar until the 2nd December rolled round, like a kid waiting for Christmas.

 

*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*Flash forward*-*-*-*-*-*-*-*

 

And just like that we transport ourselves to a blustery Dublin morning where 3/5s of the crew have gathered to take a wander around Howth, ably assisted by local tour guide Ellen. We pit-stopped for coffee and took a brief, hunger reinforcing, stroll down the pier, taking care to avoid the fishermen and the gales before boarding the Dart into town.

 

Continuing the tour of Dublin we hopped off the train at Pearse station and strolled round college green, passing Trinity College Dublin, alma matter for Ellen, Calum and Eoghan (officially the College of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Queen Elizabeth) and heading up to the Greenhouse, an unassuming building near Stephen’s Green.

 

Arriving just before the rain, but laden with luggage, the hospitable staff were only too happy to relieve us of our many bags and layers. Walking into the restaurant we were surprised at quite how small it was, with room for a maximum of 50 covers. While waiting for Kimberley and Lee, who had clearly decided to make the most of their first visit to Dublin, we all agreed that it would be a shame to travel all this way and not go for the 5 course tasting menu – we held back on paired wines though. With two babies on the way it didn’t make that much sense.

 

While we were waiting for our first course we feasted on some delicious warm bread, served with whipped butter. I think by the end of the meal we’d managed to eat 6 or 7 platefuls of it. Without further ado the first course arrived and it was a bold one. I think it’s fair to say that, although it looked fantastic, a vivid green thanks to the granny smith apples, it was an acquired taste with the strength of the smoked eel and the confusing textures proving to challenging for some. Fears were abated with the arrival of the next course, finely cubed mackerel tartare served with similarly diced vegetables and topped with a horseradish foam. This was delicious and a precursor to a wonderful meal. From here on out the course just got better and better. The fish course presented itself as a delicious slab of john dory, perfectly seasoned and resplendent in a pale pink sauce. The meat course, fillet of Irish beef, was one of the best meat dishes we’ve had this year. Rich and indulgent and left everyone wanting more.

 

The desserts and the petit fours, including some Christmas clementines, were also delicious and rounded off a splendid meal perfectly.

 

4 hours after we first sat down we dragged ourselves away from the table and stumbled down the road to O’Donoghues for a wet. The Guinness was excellent, admirably matched by the atmosphere with PK noting that this was his perfect pub. The Jamieson’s Black also deserves a shout out, a fine example of Irish whiskey.

 

A great day and a fantastic celebration of World Food.

 

Facts:

  • Population was largest at start of 20th century, not recovered since

  • Local Dublin derby one team forced to wear away jersey

 

Full menu:

 

Foie Gras Royale, Granny Smith Apple, Walnut, Smoked Eel

*****

Line Caught Mackerel Tartare, Pickled Kolhrabi, Horseradish

*****

John Dory, Broccoli, Watercress, Vadouvan, Buttermilk

*****

Irish Beef Fillet Cauliflower, Capers & Raisins, Truffle

*****

Chocolate & Hazelnut “Tart”, Coffee, Milk Sorbet

© 2018

bottom of page